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CFO Digest Sample #1
(Note: email addresses and phone numbers have been removed to
protect the privacy of the members in this sample.)
Subject: CFO Digest 10-22-1999, #811
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To contribute to the list
please address mail to:
digest#cardinalflyers.com
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Upcoming Cardinal Flyers Online fly-ins:
October 30
Santa Ynez/Solvang
42 or more in 23 planes. Remember to call in 10-15 miles out for ID (spot
landing contest). I need a couple of non-contestants to help by arriving by
10am. Anyone staying overnite call the Best Western King Frederik
ask for Carol to get the special rate............Leo Saunders
Who's next?
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Table of Contents:
1968 Cardinal Brochure
1976 Cardinal II RG For Sale
1978 Cardinal RG
rheostat
Door stop spring
Interior Plastic
Covers
Paul's Spinner & Cowling
Teflon Tape
Fuel drain valve rebuild
Michael Lott's Gear Problem
Baggage door latch
Paul Adler's "too much"
firewall penetrations
Re: Cardinal ad
Stabilator Brackets
Re: Gear lights
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From: "Robert R. Arrington"
Subject: 1968 Cardinal Brochure
It never ceases to amaze me how much owning a Cardinal draws attention. At
almost every airport I go to someone says, "Nice Cardinal," and I meet a
new friend. But this story takes the cake.
The other day I was tying down my 1968 Cardinal and an elderly gentleman
who was driving by the airport pulled in and got out and introduced
himself. He said that he got his private pilots license in 1968 and the
plane he learned to fly in was one of the first Cardinals produced and was
owned by his instructor. This was before all of the required Cardinal
modifications were made. He remembers especially how difficult pitch
control was on landing before the slots were put in the stabilator.
He said that he always wanted to buy a Cardinal, but never had the money to
do so. Then he went to the trunk of his car and got out the original
Cardinal brochures that he had saved for over thirty years! The date on the
brochure is September 30, 1967. Lots of color pictures if any one is
interested in original colors or paint schemes. He gave it to me to keep
and then went on his way. What a treasure!
Bob Arrington, N2879X Inverness, FL
[Neat story, Bob! You'll have to scan those brochures and forward them to
Keith for the website!! Paul, remote from Lake Tahoe]
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From: "Brian W. Kane"
Subject: 1976 Cardinal II RG For Sale
I am selling my "mint" shape Cardinal.
[sorry to hear that, Brian! Paul]
Logbook Summary Airframe Total Time 2,074 hrs Engine SMOH 213 hrs New 3
Blade Prop 213 hrs Annual Jan/99 Exterior "9" always hangared and no Damage
History Interior "9"
Avionics Dual MX Digital 300 Nav/Com. Complete with Glide Slope Cessna ADF
S-Tec 50 Auto Pilot with Electric Trim and coupled to Nav or GPS with Alt.
Hold Mounted Apollo 2001 GPS Digital Tachometer WX 10 Storm Scope EI 8
Probe Engine Monitor 4 Place intercom Transponder with mode C Mounted in
panel Sony AM/FM CD Player Dual PPT. Other Summer custom one piece window
covers Winter engine cover Tannis Heater
Asking $80,000 USD.
Contact Brian Kane E-Mail briankane2#cumpuserve.com Bus 403-xxx-xxxx Res
403-xxx-xxxx Fax 403-xxx-xxxx
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From: "Michael K. Sheils"
Subject: 1978 Cardinal RG
Fellow Cardinal Flyers Online:
WANTED; THE BEST LOW TIME, UPGRADED, EQUIPPED,NDH 1978 CARDINAL RG IN
EXISTENCE. WILLING TO PAY FOR THE PLEASURE OF OWNING AND FLYING IT. WHO
OWNS IT AND IS WILLING TO PART WITH IT? PLSE E-MAIL TO mksheils#ibm.net or
call 787-xxx-xxxx,fax 787-xxx-xxxx(day),call 787-xxx-xxxx, fax 787-724-6243
(evening).MKS subscribe cardinal.
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From: David McNeill
Subject: rheostat
Aircraft spruce sells the Cessna replacement item.
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From: "Sanders, Andrew P"
Subject: Door stop spring
I picked up rivet hole alignment guide at the Boeing surplus store last
week and am ready to cut/bend it into a door stop spring. Any short cuts
for removal/replacement short of disassembling both doors (the right to
remove the existing one to use as a pattern, the left to install the new
one)?
Andrew Sanders (Home) ap.sand#gte.net (Home) 425/xxx-xxxx
Andrew Sanders
Airplane Integration M/S 02-53 425-xxx-xxxx (Voice) xxx-xxxx (Pager)
andrew.sanders#PSS.boeing.com
[Door disassembly definitely not required. I've done this a couple times,
but don't recall the details... let's see, if there a cotter pin and clevis
pin that have to come out, or? Anyway, it's all there... just start
removing pieces! Paul]
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From: "Robert R. Arrington"
Subject: Interior Plastic
I had all of my interior of my 1968 Cardinal done last year by Buck's
Upholstery in Williston, Fl (352) 529-0059. He has done about one plane
every two weeks for about 10 years, so he is quite expert in this area.
At any rate, he repairs the plastic with fiberglass and aluminum as
described by other contributors of the e-mail list, then covers all the
plastic parts with upholstery vinyl or leather, which ever you want. He
uses 3M contact type cement, I believe. He claims it never comes unglued
and that the plastic will never break again. His work is gorgeous.
I think the vinyl looks as good as the leather. After one year, at least,
it still looks great and hasn't come unglued! If you want to know exactly
what glue or vinyl to use give him a call.
Bob Arrington, N2879X Inverness, FL
[Thanks, Bob... neat technique! Paul]
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From: Stephen Carstensen
Subject: Covers
Bob,
We have a Cunningham cover that was made for us about four years ago. The
quality, materials and fit are outstanding. In fact during comparisons on
the ramp, I can't find a cover as well made.
I can't help but wonder about the poor experience one of our readers had
with them. I can only offer this advice. "If you're not happy, call
Cunningham and have them make it right! Give them the opportunity (if you
haven't already)"
Now for the advantage part. And I'm not sure about this being limited to
Cunningham. When I ordered my cover I opted for a "full top cover". The way
this works us that there is a panel of material that is sewn to the top of
the windshield cover that goes back over the wing center section and
Velcros to the top of the piece that covers the rear window. It is not
difficult to put in place unless you're parked tail into a fair breeze.
Part head into the wind (better for our doors anyway) and throw it over the
wing.
The advantage to this is that when the plane is sitting the dust and dirt
don't get a change to creep under the top edge of the canvas that's over
the windows. This was made especially evident at CMA where it can get
uncommon breezy. The combination of dust and dirt blowing around and the
resultant chafe from the cover moving in that breeze can really mark up the
plastic.
Best, Cars
>What are the advantages of a Cunningham Cover?<
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From: "Larry S. Wokral"
Subject: Paul's Spinner & Cowling
Paul,
>>Did you ever get your plane back from Phoenix?
[Yes, last weekend.]
>>If so, was it repaired there or did you tape it up to get it home?
[They replaced the spinner, and fabbed some temporary aluminum brackets to
hold the cowl halves together.]
>>Will you fly it to Solvang?
[Probably not, unless I get a miracle cure. I'm looking for a salvage
nosebowl and consulting fiberglas guys. My IA said he could fit it, no
problem, from the pictures. When he got his hands on it and saw how much
was missing, well, now he's not so sure, and asked to look around for a
replacement nosebowl. Paul]
Did you get the pilot package from Liga?
[Yes I did, but I didn't rush to complete it, since I'm probably not going
to be flying much if at all in November :-( Paul]
Lots of questions! [Indeed!]
Larry Wokral
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From: KurtEmm#aol.com
Subject: Teflon Tape
Sid, the tape was purchased from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty, Co. in June,
1996. The cost was $27.95 back then for 6 yards of 1" wide Teflon
anti-chafe tape.
I also asked the rebuilder if the "oil leak" run could have hurt the cam,
and he said that since I had just run the engine (1/2 hr flight) before I
did the oil change, he did not think this caused the damage... more likely
it was from letting the plane sit for several weeks between starts (the
previous owner used 20W-50 oil which is not recommended for long sit times,
and I continued to use the same oil until just recently. I now use
Aeroshell W100, 50 W oil)
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From: "Cory Trapp"
Subject: Fuel drain valve rebuild
Anyone have any insight on rebuilding the fuel drain valves on the RG
header tanks, part # 2016021-9?
The parts guide does not show a breakdown, three sources show no stock and
want $582 for them anyway. I'm looking at just dismantling them fixing the
leak at the stem, which I am guessing is just an O ring. Since the leak is
not that bad (just some staining), I don't want to make it worse if the
parts to reseal this thing can't be had. ( You can always identify the
pioneers by the arrows sticking out of their backs.)
Cory Trapp '77RG N52193
[How often do folks use those drain valves? I've heard everything from
"before every flight" to "Never!" Paul, one year anniversary of RG
ownership mode]
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From: "M. A. Rennick and J. H. Pope"
Subject: Michael Lott's Gear Problem
Michael requested help for his gear problem. Perhaps I can do so after
having had similar problems several years ago. (I reported on this several
weeks ago but I can understand how this could be missed.)
The solenoids would seem to be OK but I would check for any binding on the
solenoid shaft.
If one has access to a push scale one can check the pressure required to
release the downlocks by judiciously pushing on the center of the
over-center lock mechanism. This should be close to 10 lbs. I have found
that 20 lbs. will cause failure. If the required force is too great then
check the eccentric cam, within the mechanism, that limits the up ward
travel of the down-lock fork in its down locked position. This requires
removal of the mechanism (not difficult). Loosen the screw so that the
eccentric can be rotated such as to reduce the fork's upward travel. The
service manual should give the specs on all of this. Recheck the force
after reinstallation. Be careful not to rotate the cam too much so that the
force is too low allowing release on a bounce for instance. (All of this
should, of course be on the jacks.)
Finally sit on the tire with the downlocks engaged to see if the
adjustments are proper. If the downlock release further adjustments may be
required. Also check the position of the down lock pin to agree with the
specs given in the maintenance manual.
Joe Pope 1971 Cardinal RG
[Thanks, Joe... nothing like the voice of experience! Paul]
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From: Keith Peterson
Subject: Baggage door latch
Ollie, you ask about a spring for a baggage door latch.
Like so many things, I'll only admit to knowing a friend of a friend who
solved that once in a place I can't recall... but the solution was pretty
easy.
Problem is, the little spring in there is a torque spring with odd little
arms and bends, very custom built. You will not likely find that spring at
Ace Aero, or even Paul's fav hardware store. And as I recall, even if you
had it you'd go insane trying to work out how to install it.
No, the solution in this case was a small tension spring, very much similar
to the hardware types (but the aircraft certified version, of course) that
was placed between just the right spot on the mechanism and a strategically
placed hole on a bracket part way up the door.
If you look at the mechanism you may notice the spot.. there is, as I
recall, a perfect little place where a spring was probably just meant to
be. Watch the mechanism work and think about where a bit of tension would
solve the problem.
Of course you'll have to run this past your A&P, but I think they have some
latitude in making fixes to non-critical parts using aviation grade methods
and materials to 'make it work.'
I hope this helps. But do run it by an expert, I just saw one once. And no,
it was not my airplane. ;-)
Keith
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From: robert patterson
Subject: Paul Adler's "too much"
I disagree with Paul A's comments. I find the daily mix of material to be
an acceptable length, with the occasional longer ones a nice treat. Maybe
we could just cut down on the number of RG related problems, that would
shorten things up quite a bit ;-).
[Hey, I'm all for that!! Paul]
Paul M's recent comment about snipping stuff from Avsig etc. once in a
while does explain some of the things that seem to pop up in the middle of
a thread every once in a while, which I was finding confusing.
Bob Patterson, N34634, C177B, 1973 fixed gear, 9B1 (Marlboro, MA)
[Excuse my sadism there in confounding folks! I try to pass along
interesting info wherever I find it! Paul]
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From: Paul Millner
Subject: firewall penetrations
I notice on my fixed gear, there are some nifty stainless steel fittings,
about 7/8" round with ears, and a flute bent into one side, that are
mounted on the firewall to allow wire bundles to pass through (the wire
bundle has to take a 90 to pass along the firewall through one of the
"flutes". Because these are stainless, they provide fire protection to the
underlying hole. If there were an engine fire, it couldn't torch through
the wiring bundle holes, 'cause there's this SS cap fitted there.
I haven't been able to locate these in the Cessna book, but I feel sure
Cessna installed them... 'cause there's nut plates in the firewall to allow
screws to pass through the "ears" and attach the fitting to the firewall.
Any clues on how to buy a couple more of these for my new airplane?
Paul
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From: "Michael K. Sheils"
Subject: Re: Cardinal ad
Paul, Re: Fixation, I'm assuming that the 78 model will be the best
equipped. It also received the final up-grades from the factory, i.e.
improved gear retraction power pack and 28 volt elec. system. I want the
best available because my wife is beginning to fly also.
MKS
"Paul Millner [OAK]" wrote:
> Hey Michael!
>
> Why the fixation on '78 Cardinals?
>
> Paul
[It might work out that way, Michael... however, some feel the 28 volt is a
distinct cost of ownership disadvantage. Your mileage may vary. I'd be
interested in the best airframe condition you can come across, as long as
it's the '76 or later gear system there's not a lot of improvement to be
had.
One of our readers mentioned at the CPA Cardinal Class in Cincinnati, that
being a marine dealer, he recognized the gear pump and motor on the pre-78
Cardinals as a standard marine part. He was going to get back to me with
info on ordering a longer set of gear pump gears for that motor, to
increase fluid capacity, and hence give faster ('78 style?) retraction
times to the earlier year models. Looking forward to hearing that info!!
Then we can go down and explain it all to the FSDO! :-) Paul]
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From: "Bell, Ken"
Subject: Stabilator Brackets
I have found the Cardinal Digests and the Cardinal Web Site to be by far
the best sources of information to educate me on the aircraft and its
maintenance. Certainly we all owe a debt of gratitude to Paul and Keith for
their willingness to share their knowledge and to donate their time and
efforts. I am not certain that I would have learned about the issue with
the stabilator brackets had it not been for these resources.
[Thanks for the recognition, Ken! Paul]
Last fall when it was time for annual on 7534V (1976 RG), I had prepared a
list of things to check and/or replace due to information from these
sources and a search of the aircraft records which failed to turn up a
record that they had been addressed -- things like stabilator brackets,
gear hoses, etc. At time of annual, Cessna was out of the stabilator
brackets and indicated that they would not be available for two or three
months. Hence the aircraft was returned to service without new brackets.
With 3500 hours on the aircraft, I was coming more concerned about the
failure of these brackets. I began using a flashlight to examine the
brackets from every angle possible during every preflight. Recently, I
could see what appeared to be a crack about an inch long on the left,
front, bracket. A check on the availability of parts found that they are
readily available now. I had the shop get the parts and install them on the
aircraft this week. What I was seeing during preflight was indeed a crack.
None of the other brackets were cracked. The mechanic reported that the
brackets are still labeled wrong, left is right and right is left.
Otherwise the holes matched and the installation was routine.
[Labels we can deal with! Glad to hear the fit was good. Paul]
Had I gained the insight three years ago of some of the common parts
failure that have surfaced in the digest of the last year or two I could
probably have avoided experiencing failure of a couple other parts. Namely,
the front gear actuator hose and the fuel flow line to the firewall. Both
these items failed about two years ago on 7534V. Neither resulted in any
serious consequences but certainly there is risk associated with not
replacing these parts before the reach the point of failure. For those
Cardinal drivers who have not yet done so, you might want to consider the
cumulative experience of those who contribute to the digest.
Ken Bell -- 7534V
[Thanks, Ken! I'm planning to replace that fuel flow hose during my annual
that begins this week! Paul]
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From: Keith Peterson
Subject: Re: Gear lights
(Richard, I took the liberty of passing this along to the digest, hence the
formatting. KP)
Richard Cooper (rcooper9#concentric.net) writes:
Your suggestions on rigging seem to have solved the sticking nosegear; we
also replaced the hook on the nosegear which was bent and apparently
contributing to the problem.
The problem now is that the gear lights work perfectly, but only when the
plane is on jacks. After take-off, the gear-up light won't come on although
the gear visually fully up and the nosegear doors closed.
After extending the gear, I can visually confirm that the mains and
nosegear are down and fully extended, but the gear-down light won't come on
- until I touch down. The minute the mains touch, the green light goes on.
We've replaced the switches and as before, the lights work perfectly when
the plane is up on jacks. Cessna has no suggestions. While I personally
think that the lights are simply afraid of heights, I was hoping that you
might have some more constructive suggestions.
Thanks for any help you can give me (and my frustrated A&P).
Keith Peterson replies:
Oh no! A frustrated mechanic is an expensive mechanic!
There are four likely failure points in the gear lights: bulbs, wires,
switches and magnets. It sounds like your wires and switches are new.
Most likely the magnets have lost their punch, and are no longer strong
enough to 'make' the reed switch until something bumps them. This is more
common than you might think.
You can test for this condition in a couple of ways. Hold a shop magnet up
near the switch while the horn is blaring to see if that fixes it. You can
do the mains in the air (with the cover off).
The nose gear switch would have to be failing on the ground to find it this
way. And it's darn hard to get a magnet up in there anyway. Remember that
you can test the nose gear systems without lifting the airplane, check out
this page for details:
http://www.cardinalflyers.com/tech/info/noseswng.htm
You can see a picture of the gear magnets at this url:
http://www.cardinalflyers.com/tech/info/reedswch.htm
If the magnets are the problem, there are two solutions. You can adjust the
magnets up closer, and since this problem started when you replaced the
switches that might work. But if the magnets are weak that may need to be
redone from time to time.
Or you can simply replace the magnets. Two ways to do that too. You can buy
new ones from Cessna (not sure the cost but I can guess.) Or I've heard you
can push the magnets out of their holders and epoxy in new ones. They are
little cylinders, 3/16 or so across, and I'm told easily replaced by very
impressive rare earth magnets that will leap across the room to a hunk of
steel.
[Available at Radio Shack per a comment at the Cardinal Club fly-in at
Boyne Mountain this past summer.]
Make sure your A&P is willing to sign off such a field repair, he may or
may not feel like he has the latitude to do that.
You're really close.. hope this pushes you over the line.
Keith
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