Bringing Cardinal Owners Together
for safety, savings and fun
Welcome Guest ()
Join or Log In
  Home |  Prepurchase |  Ops |  Community |  Members |  Mods |  Tech |  Data
Tech Index
CFO Search Page

Alphabetic Index

A
ADs
Aileron Trim Tab
Aileron Bellcrank
Air Box Repair
Air Duct/Spar
Air filter Gasket
Air filter mods
Airfoil story
Alternate Parts sources
Alternate Air Door
Alternator
  Bracket
  '68 CB
  Circuit Breaker
  Circuit Breaker kit
  Debug
  Troubleshoot
  Whine and noises
  OV switch
  Standby
Ammeter blip
Amsafe Install
Antenna Mount
Annual Inspection
Autopilot
  300AP transistors
  300AP hints
  Bellcrank
Avionics Air Scoop

B
Back seat removal
Baffle Mods
Baffle Rebuild
'68 Baffle Mods
Baggage door seal
Baggage latch spring
Baggage Bulkhead
BAS seat belt
Battery lid mod
Bellcrank, Aileron
Belly Cleaning
Bike Rack
Brackett Air Filter
Brake hose FG
Brake hose RG
Brake master FG
Brake master rebuild
Brake Swivel (RG)
'Braly Mod'
Boroscopes
Bulkhead repair ('68)
Bungee (Steering)
Bus Bar repair

C
Camera Windows
Carb Data
Carbon Monoxide
Case mods
CAT tubing replace
Charging Debug
Chart desk/table
Compass leaks
Concorde Lid Mod
Console Repair
Connector options
Console: add-on
Cntrl Column Bearings
Cntrl Column Bushings
Cooling Cylinders
Cooling in Climb
Cover review
Cowl
  '71 mods
  Baffle
  Bumper
  Bumper 2
  Camloc Fasteners
  Camloc Issues
  Camloc Evolution
  Chafing Mods
  Eyelets
  Flap cable replace
  Flap exit ramp
  Flap fences
  Flap bumpers
  Flap Exit
  Flap Effectiveness
  Grommets
  Rubs on Spinner
  Southco fasteners
  Screws
  Custom Inlets
  Inlet Fences
Cylinder Cooling
Cylinder cooling details
Cylinder "doghouse"
Cylinder inspection

D
Data Plate
Dash cover fab
Defroster fan
D Engine Swap
  FG details
  RG details
  IO390 install
  Governor modifications
Display repair
Door
  Fuse damage
  Handles - inside
  Handles - outside
  Handle spring
  Hinge reinforcement
  Hinge repairs
  Latch Clutch
  Lubrication
  Locks
  Pin alignment
  Seal replacement
  Seal source
  Spring replacement
  Tightening
Doubler repairs
Drilled yoke
Dual Speaker (overhead)
Dual Mag install
Dukes Fuel Pump

E
Elevator: see Stabilator
Electrical Noise
Electrical Parts
Electrical Connectors
Elevator Trim Rod clearance
Engine baffle mods
Engine Cables
Engine Gages
Engine mount
Engine swap (D)
Engine Upgrade '68
  180 HP O-360
  IO-360 RG engine
Exhaust fairings

F
FG Gear Adjust
FG fuel pump rebuild
FG Strut Rebuild
FG Strut Rebuild 2
Firewall Forward mod
FG Jacking
FG Fuel Flow
Flap:
  Adjustment
  Adjust Problems
  Follow-up cable
  Follow-up cable Options
  Motor source
  Noise
  Operations
  Rigging
  Rigging hints
  Slow
Flood light
Fuel Caps
  Flush Cap rebuild
  Monarch thoughts
  Monarch Install story
  Replacement Options
  Types
  Umbrella dissection
Fuel
  Aux Tanks
  Dipstick
  Drain valve
  Dukes Pump(RG)
  Dukes Pump Option
  Feeding unevenly
  Flow FG
  Gage info
  Header Tank leak
  Hose replacement
  Indicator repair
  Pump (Weldon)(RG)
  Pump rebuild (FG)
  Quick Drain (FG)
  Shutoff issues
  Shutoff rebuild (FG)
  RG Selector Valve rebuild
  FG Selector Valve rebuild
  Tip Vent
  Vent leak (crossover)
  Weldon Fuel Pump (RG)
'68 Fuse Repair

G
Gages
Gap Seals
Garmin 500 install
Gear Indicator lights
Gear Leg Adjust (FG)
Gear Light Secrets
Gear Magnets
Gear Mirror
Gear pump brushes
Gear pump Diagnosis
Gear pump 'bumps'
Gear Pump Light
Gear pump rebuild '78
Gear wobble (FG)
Governor bracket mods
Governer control lube
Governer plate
Gov plate: One Mech's View
Governer Surge
Grab Handle Clip
Green Goo

H
Handicapped passengers
Handle Clip
Headrests
Headlights
Headlight Replacement
Headliner R & R
Heater improvements
  Exhaust fan
  Bulkhead seal
  Aux heat tube
  Tailcone mods (RG)
  Flow Improvement
  Underseat fans
Heavy Wing
Hoisting
Horton STOL
Hose Standoffs
HP Plus Mod
Hydraulic Hoses (RG)

I
Ignition: Lasar
Injection system
Injector Clamps
Intake Manifold Seal
Intake Manifold Drain
Intercom noise
Interior parts
Interior Rework

J
Jacking the FG
Jacking the RG
Jack options
Jack buying
Jack building
Jacks: my design
Jon's Workbench

K
King display repair
Kinzie presentation
Kinzie install


L
Landing Gear (FG)
Landing Lights
Landing Light Replacement
Lasar Ignition
LED Lights
 Courtesy lights
 Dimming filter
 Gear indicators
 Tail Beacon
 Wing tips
Light (flood)
Lighting troubleshoot

M
Magnets (gear)
Mag Install (dual
Magneto points
Manifold Pressure gauge
Manuals
Master cylinder rebuild
Mixture cable (Cablecraft)
Mixture Cable Attach
Monarch Fuel Cap Install
Monarch Fuel Cap Options
Muffler
  Bracket Removal
  Clamp (RG)
  Cracks

N
Nav Light Indicator
Nose Gear
  Actuator rebuild
  Arm pad
  Drag link cracks (RG)
  Door Hinge (RG)
  Door wear
  NG Door Grommets
  Door Grommet option
  Door Bumper
  Scissor bolt shearing
  Shimmy
  Strut Rebuild (RG)
  Strut Rebuild (FG)
  Strut Rebuild 2 (FG)
  Swinging
  Door Triming
  Uplock Roller (RG)

O
Oil Canister issues
Oil Cooler Baffle (RG)
Oil Cooler Info
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Cooler gap (RG)
Oil Cooler upgrade (RG)
Oil Draining tricks
Oil Filter (D) Adapter
Oil Filter Cutting
Oil leaks
Oil line: prop
Oil Paths
Oil Pump
Oil Separator
Oil Screen (FG)
Oil Screen (RG)
Omni antenna
Overhaul
Overhead Console Repair
Over Voltage Sensor
O/V switch wiring
Owner Maintenance

P
Panel forming
Panel Project
Panel Tilt
Paint
  Colin's Paint Story
  Hints and Tips from Guy
  RG Colors
  FG Colors
  Painting templates
Pitot-Static Troubleshooting
Placards
Plane Power VR
Preflight Inspection
Prop control lube
Prop oil line
Prop oil line fitting
Prop Surge
Prop Torque
PTT options
PTT in Yoke
PWM filter
Pump rebuild: gear

Q

R
Radio noises
Rain leaks
Retractable Gear (RG)
  (Also see 'Gear')
  Alternate Air Door
  Ammeter blip
  Brake Swivel
  Configuration (by year)
  Downlock rebuild
  Early switches
  Gear Leg removal tool
  Gear Lights
  Gear Magnets
  Gear Mirror
  Gear Selector Rebuild
  Gear pump 'bumps'
  Gear pump diag/light
  History
  Hoisting
  Internal Leak
  Jacking
  Leg pin removal tool
  Lock Valve rebuild
  Light design
  Light socket
  Main Gear Pin
  Main Rod End
  Main Rod End Sources
  Manifold
  Mechanical switches
  MG up-bumper
  MG Saddle Replace
  MG Saddle Repair
  MG actuator bracket
  NG Door wear
  NG drag link
  NG Hoses
  NG Swinging
  NG Switch wire
  NG arm pad
  NG Door Trim
  Parts (by year)
  Pressure Switch
  Pump brushes
  Pump Bump
  '78 Pump bypass leak
  Pump Internals
  '71-3 Pump Manifold
  Pump rebuild '78
  Pump Shuttle Valve
  Reed switch
  Reed switch rebuild
  Rod End
  Rod End sources
  Schematics
  Selector Rebuild
  Service Bulletins
  Speaker (gear warn)
  Squat switch wire
  Shuttle Valve
  Switch rebuild
  Throttle switch arm
  Throttle switch example
  Troubleshoot
  Uplock Roller (RG)
  Warning cam
  Warning horn
Rear seat removal
RG stall switch repair
Rigging
Rope trick
Rosen Sun visors
Royalite Replacements
Rudder shimmy
Rudder trim

S
SCAT tubing installation
Screw Removal
Seats, rear
Seat belts for 2
Seat pivot
Seat rails
Serial numbers
Service Bulletins
Shimmy dampener
  RG rebuild
  FG issues
  Solutions
  More FG
  FG solution
Shimmy
Shoulder harness
Sniffle Valve
Sill seal installation
Sound Proofing
Sound Insulation
Southco fasteners
Spar
  AD inspection
  Cap inspection
  Cap cracks (177)
  Cap cracks (210)
  Carrythrough
  Carrythrough AMOC
  Carry-thru Bottom inspection
  Attach Pins
  Carry-thru Repair
  Repair avoidance
  Replacement
  '68 Bracket Crack
  Servicability
Speaker (overhead)
Speed mods
Spinner Baffle
Spinner Issues
  '68 Spinner
  Paul's Spinner
  Chuck's Spinner
  Rubs on Cowl
Stall switch rebuild
STD Temp
Sticking Valve
Stinger Screw Map
Steering Bungee
Squat Switch
Springs
  Wing Tiedown Ring
  Door holdopen
Squat Switch
Stabilator
  Balance
  Bracket cracks
  Bracket inspection
  Bracket rework
  Bracket fasteners
  Bushings
  Bushing fabrication
  Creaking noises
  More Brackets
  Trim Rod clearance
  Trimming
  Wobble
  '68 Stab attach
Stall switch
Standby Alternator
Standoffs
Starter Troubleshooting
Static System Troubleshooting
S-Tec autopilot
STCs
Step removal
STOL kit
Strobes, adding
Strut rebuild (RG)
Strut Rebuild (FG)

T
Tach cable
Tailcone Bird cover
Tailcone Screw Map
Throttle cable
Throttle cam
Tiedown Ring spring
Tilt in Panel
Turbocharging
  Air Foil Bearings
   Primer
  Checklist
  Heat Exchanger
  Install Info
  FG Virtual tour
  RG Virtual tour
  Paul's pics
  Parts List
  Performance
  Power Setting
  System Overview
  Operations Manual
  Vacuum Seal
  Vince's pics
  Keith's pics
Type Cert Data

U
Uplock Actuator (RG)
  Umbrella fuel cap
Uneven Fuel Feed

V
Vacuum Seal
Valve sticking
Vent Hoses
Vent window crank
 Vent Example
Vernatherm Details
Vernatherm Theory
Vernatherm Tool
Vernatherm Fix
Voltage Drop: starter
Voltage Regulator
Voltage low on bus
Vortex Generators
VG Installation

W
Water leaks
Wheelchairs
Wheelchair lift
Wheel Pant Upgrade
Wheel hub cracks
Whisker antenna
Windshield leaks
Window replacement
Window crank, vent
Wing Air Inlets
Wing Pins
Wing removal
Wing Rigging
Wing smoothing
Wing Tiedown Ring
Wing tip mods
Wing Vent hoses
Wing wiring plug
Wire Standoffs

X

Y
Yoke Drilling
Yoke Bearings
Yoke Bushings

Z
  

Over Voltage Sensor



A common failure point of our charging system is the Over Voltage sensor, a little known and hard to find device that has the power to shut down the alternator at will, since it lives in the alternator field power circuit. Let's take a look at this pesky little critter:

Nessled in the wire bundle of most of our aircraft is a small black tube with three wires and a simple goal in life: to protect us from a runaway alternator. Should the alternator start to produce higher than desired voltages on the buss, this box will shut down the alternator until it is reset.

It does this by interrupting the field voltage, and as such it is in series with the alternator field. It senses the voltage of this line as it's source for monitoring for over voltage as well. It is reset by turning the master switch off and back on again.

It is located in the bundle of wires behind the circuit breakers, over the feet of the copilot. Often it is surrounded by the wires in that bundle and is not visible without removing a large number of wire wraps. The two pictures here are typical installations in two different aircraft.

The failure mode of this device is simple: the alternator stops producing current and the voltage drops to battery levels. If the overvoltage switch is defective this will often be a time or temperature driven event, occurring a certain number of minutes after startup or once the cabin reaches a certain temperature.

A quick check of the overvoltage sensor can be performed in a simple way: on the ground, with the engine off, stand beside the left side of the airplane and turn on the master switch. Listen for the click of the regulator. You may wish to turn on the battery portion of the master switch first, then cycle the alternator side while listening for the click.

Please note: increasingly our aircraft have digital voltage regulators which will not click. This only works for the old Ford type mechanical regulators... with digital systems it may require a voltmeter on the power wire to confirm that power is getting to the voltage regulator.

If you do not hear a click, there are only a few possible causes: either you have a solid state regulator, the master switch is not working, the circuit breaker is not passing current, there is a wiring problem or the overvoltage relay is open.

By the way, the master switch is another frequent source of problems, but they are most often intermittent and can be observed in the same way, listening for the click as you cycle the switch.

What is the solution? A new overvoltage relay is one possibility, but the most common solution is removal of the switch altogether (connecting the field wires together to remove the switch from the circuit) and replacement of the old 'Ford-style' regulator with a more modem version that has built-in overvoltage protection.

One example is the Zeftronics regulator shown here. It performs the functions of the overvoltage switch internally, and includes indications via it's LED when it does so.

When you remove the over voltage switch you might want to study up on the over voltage wiring circuit so you know exactly what you are working with.

Do we really need this protection? Perhaps we should simply remove the overvoltage protection and let the alternator run? Not a good idea: remember that certain cars use an unregulated alternator to defrost their windshields, and these systems operate at over 90 volts.

Even worse than loosing a charging system would be loosing all your radios and the battery at the same time...

Keith Peterson
Over Taiwan, April '98



These pages are a collection of the ideas and impressions of the Cardinal pilots who frequent this site. This information is anecdotal, informal and may not be completely accurate. The Cardinal Flyers are not certified mechanics and do not guarantee the accuracy of the contents of these pages. Please research and confirm anything that is referenced on these pages with the experts appropriate to your situation.

As always, the aircraft maintenance, operations and flight manuals, the FAA and the advice of a certified mechanic and flight instructor, should be your primary sources of information regarding safe maintenance and operation of your aircraft.



Copyright Cardinal Flyers Online LLC 1997-2024